Cotton is the fabric of summer and for many reasons, it gets a big tick: it’s a natural fibre, it’s incredibly versatile, it makes soft, lightweight and breathable fabric, it’s biodegradable and, best of all, it isn’t animal-derived – unlike some other natural fibres.
Unfortunately, it is also a big part of fast fashion, which is one reason it’s the largest non-food crop globally. This is an issue because there are some not nice things about cotton.
First, it’s an incredibly water intensive crop, both in its cultivation and its processing. To produce 1kg of cotton takes 10,000 litres of water. In clothing terms, this means one cotton t-shirt soaks up more than 2700 litres of water. Add to this the issue of pesticides and synthetic fertilisers that leech into waterways and into the earth, causing havoc to animal habitats, and there is a significant environmental and animal welfare impact.
The second issue is the social impact of cotton farming. Sadly, in some regions there is widespread exploitation of farmers and workers, with poor working and pay conditions, and even child and forced labour.
Luckily, organic cotton is increasingly available. That means reduced chemical pollution, and other benefits such as a safer working environment, and a greater reliance on rainwater (versus ground water). It’s not perfect, as the yields of organic crops are smaller and more labour intensive, but it’s a good start.
If you are shopping new, make sure any cotton you buy is certified under the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), which stipulates high-level environmental and social criteria. Ultimately the solution is to not buy new clothing unless you can’t avoid it, and to care for and repair items to extend their life.